Stops Cutting

[rachelanne90]

It seems the more information I have located in SCAL, the more likely my bullet is to stop cutting in the middle of a project. I currently cut 6 mil Mylar. I load the mat with multiple stencils, and it just decides to stop cutting, but if I cut them one by one it seems to be fine.

I plan on using the commercial mat eventually so that I can load 32 stencils at once and walk away till they're done. At this rate I feel like I'm babysitting my machine.

Here are some details. Don't know if it is all relevant but I'm throwing it all out there:

-I am cutting in WYSIWYG
-60 degree blade. F160, V500, 2 passes
-24x12 mat (though physically its much longer)
-I am not out of range. It does not go into "pause" mode, rather stays in ONLINE mode and looks like its done, but SCAL says it is still sending info. (Screenshot)
-I have put a square around the stencil it stopped on. This stencil has been cut numerous times before successfully, so I don't think it is the file. Yes there are a lot of nodes, but that's simply my designs. I can't really simplify them. All of my designs successfully cut on my Cricut so am I wrong to think the silver bullet should be doing it even better? Because so far it is not
-Additionally, when it stops the blade does not lift and stays down into the plastic. The only way to fix it is turn off the machine and start over. Frustrating
-The mat and blade is loaded correctly. Heaven knows I have watched those videos 500 times lol
- I am using a MacBook. The bullet is plugged in through a USB-C hub. Is this too much information being sent to the bullet? If so my business is in trouble.

Please help!

[Gigi]

I have several thoughts and none of them have anything to do with the Silver Bullet directly. This machine can handle all that you are trying to do but there are many other variables that you might not be considering. And I am not sure if one or all are causing the issue so will just share what I know.... and I do not have a Mac (full disclosure!!) but have learned from others over time that it could also be a problem. Let's start there.

I know that Mac used to have something called a "nap app" and it interfered with large cutting files over and over again. Users just had to be sure to turn it off and things were fine. That is one thought as I don't know if that app has been improved and/or deleted!

It sounds like your blade is getting stuck in the plastic. It is sticking in the same place? You say it's not the file, but it could be the way you are cutting the files Bear with me a minute. The mylar you are cutting is fine, but you might want to try the 60 degree plus blade to see if the cuts are better. BUT.... it could definitely be the mylar that you are cutting. And it could be several issues. If the mylar contains a high content of plastic, that heats the blade and causes problems with cutting and the material is softer. So you could cut one or two stencils without issue, but when cutting a large amount, the plastic could be overheating the blade and thus "degrading" it and the cuts. We have seen it happen time and time again. People can say that they are using the same material for years but when they checked with the manufacturer, the formula for the material changed and that made all of the difference in the world - in a negative way. So it could definitely be the material that you are using. Again, you wouldn't see a problem cutting one at a time, but cutting many changes everything. The machine can handle it - it's not the machine. (and you can simplify files using the path>simplify option in SCAL without losing quality in the file, but you don't have to. Just letting you know that the option exists. I have simplified many node intensive files without losing any quality, but that's your call.)

The fact that SCAL is still sending the info makes me think that perhaps the Nap app or some other program is interfering with the transmission of the information. Also, when there are issues like this, always start with a machine reset as sometimes that will clear the channels and get things on track again.

Also - another thing I have seen happen that we have never found a reason for, is the placement of files. I have had a few files that don't cut well, but if I rotate them, they cut beautifully. No rhyme or reason for it, but it changes the cutting path and sometimes that helps.

I am throwing a lot at you as I am not sure why you are having issues, but clearly the blade is stuck - either because a program is interfering or the blade is too hot due to plastic content and not cutting. Try the machine reset, move your designs around a little to eliminate a specific file problem (or identify it) and try again. If it still happens in a different place, look at a conflicting program. If not that, then check into the makeup of the mylar you are cutting. All stencil material is NOT created equal - not even close!

Good luck.

[rachelanne90]

Thanks for your reply.

I did consider the nap app. But appears I don't have it. This is a 2019 Mac so perhaps they removed that feature? I can't really tell but I looked for more tutorials on where to find it and didn't come across any option.

The blade heating up makes sense. I would assume my material has a lot of plastic in it, though I don't have other materials to compare it to. Whats strange is it does not have a problem cutting. So it makes me think that's not an issue for blade heat. The cuts are clean. Sometimes lil bits come up off the mat and get stuck in the blade and therefore stops cutting. I am familiar with that because the Cricut would do the same thing as I start losing adhesive. That doesn't appear to be what is happening here. Nothing is stuck on the blade.

The blade does not get stuck in the same spot each time. In fact, I just loaded a new mat and it stopped again on a completely different stencil. It appears to be random. I've reset the machine a few times. Every time I have a problem I reset it. Which as been every session I've tried to use it so far.

(and thank you for the simplify node tip. I will use that in the future)

In addition to this problem- and I don't know if it is related or not - I can't seem to cut more than two stencils without the blade deciding to jaggedly skip around and spit out my mat. It is so bizarre. I'll include a photo. It becomes SUPER loud, spits out the Matt and then keeps cutting into that little white strip. The LCD screen seems to freeze and I can't pause it except turn it off. This has happened three times now and each time I have to replace the blade. I haven't even had the machine for a week! ahhh

I don't know if these are related or not but Im at a total loss

And sidenote- I seem to already be losing tackiness in less than a week. I've only used my mylar on it. Does this seem normal?

[rachelanne90]

Okay, I just put in a new blade. I'm wondering if I accidentally grabbed a cricut blade, hence the dropping down and getting stuck problem.

I'm cutting one right now and its fine at the moment so I will update if anything changes. It did pause again twice though. I keep wondering if when I"m not actively on my computer, my Mac is putting it to sleep for some reason. I just can't figure out why and where I would change it. Just thinking out loud here

[rachelanne90]

Sorry for my constant stream of thoughts!

I do think I had a cricut blade. I have been unable to get a successful cut since I got this machine. I thought I finally figured it out late last night when I cut out three stencils successfully - only to run into more problems this morning.

Obviously, cricut blades are not created equal as I see SB blades are thicker on the shaft part. However, I can NOT get a cut with my SB blade. I just had the same problem of my blade skipping around and slashing my material while spitting out the mat. Nonetheless, in order to get any cut at all I have to use f250, with 2passes. What's most perplexing is I watched a SB video cutting 7.5 mylar at 200 force. Yet I can't seem to get good clean cuts on my 6 mil mylar.

You say not all plastics are create equal. But this seems like I huge discrepancy given I am using thinner Mylar than what was created in that video. Does this sound right? I checked and rechecked my blade height/depth.

[mmhockeyfan]

In addition to this problem- and I don't know if it is related or not - I can't seem to cut more than two stencils without the blade deciding to jaggedly skip around and spit out my mat. It is so bizarre. I'll include a photo. It becomes SUPER loud, spits out the Matt and then keeps cutting into that little white strip. The LCD screen seems to freeze and I can't pause it except turn it off. This has happened three times now and each time I have to replace the blade. I haven't even had the machine for a week! ahhh

Hi,
I use a MAC desktop connected to my SB via a USB cable. I've had the "machine gun" issue happen once when I tried to cut a node-intensive design, which I ended up not trying to cut again. I didn't like the results of the node simplification either.

I suggest attempting to cut the design with paper to see if you should attempt node simplification as Gigi recommended or trying a different type of mylar. This may sound nutty, but you may want to delete all the other stencils from the virtual mat except for the one you're trying to cut. I realize it shouldn't make a difference if you're telling SCAL to cut only the selection, but it maybe worth a try.
SB will eat Cricut for lunch. Just sayin
Good luck!

[Gigi]

I am still puzzled by the errant cutting - you DID register the software right? If not it will slash through your cuts. I am sure you have but don't want to overlook anything......

Cricut blades are not tungsten carbide like the SB blades. Some people cut mylar fine with a 60 degree blade. Others need the 60 degree plus. If you are not getting good cuts with the 60 degree than you should use the 60 degree plus which I think I said earlier (maybe I just thought it!!) You cannot compare one mylar product to another because there can be a world of difference between one and another.

It is always better to cut at a lower force and more passes - that is why I think you will have more success with the 60 degree plus blade. Sherri tells everyone - you can always try the 60 degree but if you aren't getting good cuts, then switch to the 60 degree plus. Are you using the blade setting tool to set your blade height? If you have a 60 degree plus blade, try it and see if that doesn't make a difference.

Let me know about the software registration.....

[rachelanne90]

"Machine gun" is one accurate description!

The problem is with my business it is not efficient to cut one stencil at a time. I get multiple orders a day and cannot babysit this machine. With my cricut I could only cut 8 at a time, which is why I upgraded to this one. I'm feeling defeated

[rachelanne90]

Yes, the software is registered.

Regardless if the cricut blades aren't as durable as the SB blades it seems ironic that only the cricut blades are cutting my material. (though that was a mistake and I don't plan on using the cricut blades again). But why wouldn't these tungsten carbide blades be cutting through, when a "lesser" blade can?

Can you explain to me why a 60 degree plus blade would work better? I must not understand what is different about them

[rachelanne90]

To clarify,

When I mistakenly used a cricut blade, I was able to get clean cuts at 150 forces, with two passes.

Now with a "proper" and more "durable" blade, I am not getting a clean cut at 255 force, with two passes...and am looking at needing a third pass at lesser force. This just seems crazy to me

[Gigi]

I understand that you are feeling defeated, but try not to. Even tho you have been using a cutting machine, moving from a Cricut to a Silver Bullet is a huge jump and there is a learning curve. It takes time to get used to all of the idiosyncrasies of the machine to produce what you want. It doesn't happen overnight. I know that Sherri always recommends to not switch to a SB when you have pressure on yourself to get orders out as it takes time to learn. You might want to continue to use the Cricut while you work through the learning center classroom and really get to understand and be comfortable with the machine as some of the issues you are having might take care of themselves if you go through more of a step by step process. This is not a plug and play machine as I am sure you realize. It takes time to learn, but it is so worth it.

I don't know why you seemed to get better cuts with the other blade - perhaps your blade is not set properly? The 60 degree plus blade has a longer cutting shaft so it cuts thicker materials more accurately and easier.

Melita's (mmhockeyfan)suggestion is excellent. I would put card stock down as if it is the mylar, exactly how you are trying to cut now and see how it cuts from beginning to end. That will help determine where the problem might be. I would definitely try that next. We often recommend just using a pen and pen tool so blades are not damaged to "draw" out designs while learning now to use the machine so you can get used to where and how things will cut. I realize that you have a basic understanding of that - but her comment reminded me of going back to basics and starting from the beginning. I understand your desire to get up and running, but sometimes trying to rush to the "finish line", so to speak, without taking the time to fully understand all of it, will take more time with trial and error than if you just worked through the basic steps of learning about this machine.

We will get it figured out - just try a few of the suggested things, one at a time, so we can sort it all out. Thank you!

[MeFlick]

one Quick note regarding the blades, it’s going to have trouble cutting or not cutting at all if the blade has been chipped or broken on the tip. Sometimes you cannot see it with the naked eye. Check the tip of the blade with a magnifying glass and see if there is something wrong with it.

[rachelanne90]

Just wanted to give an update since a lot of posts on here aren't updated and its hard to learn what ended up working out for people.

I decided to try the opposite of all the advice I got. I put a 45 degree blade in the click blade holder, put it in as shallow as it could go (1) and it cut! If the blade stuck out anymore than that it wouldn't cut. So that was frustrating. All this talk of thick plastic and how I needed the special 60 plus blade and nothing! (of course I figured that out after I spend money on the new blade).

Anyway, I'm still having trouble with it completing large projects. The more stencils I have loaded on SCAL, the sooner the blade will start going haywire and slashing my material and spitting the mat out. Same issue as I talked about earlier ("machine gun"). I send an email to info@silverbulletcutters.com early last week and still have not received a response. In the email I attached a video of the issue occurring. I'm about ready to ditch the machine. If I cut one stencil at a time, it doesn't seem to happen. But I need to cut way more than that at once. Please someone help me! Why does my machine keep doing this?

[Gigi]

I just emailed Sherri to be sure she received the video and am waiting for a reply. I am a few hours behind her so sometimes we miss each other during the day.

Without seeing the video myself, I am having trouble envisioning what is happening. When the machine spits the mat out is is usually because there is a errant node that is causing the machine to move off the mat and thus spit out the mat. I don't remember if you said if you were cutting origin or WYSIWYG. I don't know if you checked your blade when it was suggested to be sure there was not a nick.

We have all given you the best advice we have and we told you that some can cut the material with a lesser blade, but if there are issues, it is usually time to try the long blade. I cannot see how you are setting your blade or what you are doing. It is often user error in the early stages of learning how to use this machine.

Have you tried to cut your designs (all of them) out of cardstock to see if there are any issues as suggested several times. That will help determine if the files or placement are off or if it is the material or something else. If the machine reacts strangely with all other things set up correctly, then that will help narrow down the problem.

I suggest when you have the designs on your virtual mat, do a control A (or whatever you need to do on a Mac) to select all. Be sure you don't have any nodes way at the top of the mat that would cause the pinch wheels to move off the mat to reach them. See if you get teh "machine gun" effect you describe when you use a different material using the same files. That will help with problem solving.

Occasionally there is an issue with a machine, but we cannot determine that without a better process of elimination. In the meantime you or I will hopefully hear from Sherri since I cannot "see" what you are describing.

[rachelanne90]

It is so hard to describe what is happening, so the video will be most helpful. It seems to be completely random when it decides to happen. There are no hidden nodes. It absolutely is not cutting anything that is on my SVG file, or on SCAL because it will start cutting on top of previous cuts already there. Having errant nodes has happened to me before so I'm familiar with that and then I fix the file in illustrator. These are all stencils I have cut numerous times on my cricut, and my cricut picks up "invisible" nodes as well so I would've known if I had a problem awhile ago.

Furthermore, when it occurs it seems to be completely arbitrary. But regardless it has only happened when I load SCAL with 8 stencils at once (a full Mat). Sometimes it will occur on the first cut and sometime not until three stencils in. It cuts beyond my media, into the mat, and then once the mat has spit out it starts cutting into the white rubber strip. The screen if frozen, I can't pause and all I can do it turn it off

[Gigi]

Have you tried cutting the exact mat full of stencils out of card stock to see if the error repeats then? And would you be willing to send me the file of all of them so I can see if I can repeat the error? If they cut cleanly for me then that narrows down the possibilities. If they don't, then we can look at other things. Just trying to help in the meantime ...

I just came home from a meeting to a voice mail from Sherri. She has been in the hospital the past few days (since Friday) so that is why you have not heard from her. She is ok now and hopes to be home tomorrow, so that is why you have not heard from her. I am sure she will get back to you in the next day or two once she gets home and starts to catch up.

[SandieGeek]

rachelanne90 - can you please select all files you have on the virtual mat go to Path -> Simplify and tell us how many nodes you have? A high number of nodes is a problem NOT for the machine, but the software is super loaded with data that also has to be sent to the machine. I have been working with this software for more than 5 years now using another cutting machine (different make, different manufacturer) and the same issue would occur if I had files overloaded with nodes. Do you design the files in SCAL or another software? If another software, what DPI number do you use when exporting to SVG?

BTW Design Space automatically reduces the number of nodes of an imported SVG file and you won't even know it. Design Space would crash if it had to send all that raw data to the cutting machine. Instead of reducing the nodes, SCAL gives you 100% freedom to manipulate your files as your heart desires. Simplifying the nodes in a file with a high number of nodes does not mean simplifying the design, it means reducing the number of nodes by getting rid of those with no added value to the design but create issues. Tu put it simplistically instead of using 3 nodes in a row for a straight line, all you need is 2 nodes. So getting rid of the node in the middle won't change the shape, the measurement or the quality of the cut. Your design will stay the same.

When it comes to a good and clean SVG file that is to be used for cutting is not about the high number of nodes, it is, in fact the opposite, about the minimal number of nodes to be used to cut the same shape.

If you decide to simplify, do it by selecting one file at a time. In the simplify window under the threshold box use 10. You can repeat the process if the number of nodes is still super high.

[SandieGeek]

rachelanne90 - also another thing you may want to try is to set delay of 1 second between cuts, this may give time to the software to send the data. Test with one file first as I am not sure what the delay of 1 second translates into the time of finishing cutting the project because I have never used this feature. To set up the delay watch the video "Silver Bullet User Interface" at minute 2:40. Sometimes using another USB entry on your computer/laptop may help with better data transmission as the current USB although it appears to work fine, it may not be able to send data as needed for high resolution files.

[SandieGeek]

rachelanne90 - one more question. It may sound silly but I saw it happening in the past. Once you registered the software did you download the drivers related to your machine? If you haven't done so, go to Help -> Install Driver.

[mmhockeyfan]

In addition to SandieGeek's great suggestions, I'm wondering if this issue is peculiar to Mac users? Hoping some PC users will share their experiences.