PRINT + EMBOSS + CUT

[Yanagi]

Hi,
I have just started working with my new 24" platinum with the 2 heads. I'm getting stuck in working out a couple of things and hope someone out there can help.

What I am trying to do is print with reg marks, then emboss (fold lines, in my case) and then cut.

SCAL 5 Pro:
I have imported 3 files: the image I will print (png) / the die lines (illustrator.ai) for embossing with the emboss tool / and the die lines (illustrator.ai) for the cut

So I have 3 layers in SCAL.
I cannot seem to figure out how to assign to each layer whether it should be the cut layer or the emboss (pen tool in SCAL) layer
Also, how would set the software to I perform the 2 operations during one session - first embossing and then cutting.

Then once these are assigned, what are the next steps/settings?

Thanks very much.

[Gigi]

I just received your email about this as well. If you post on the forum you do not need to separately email tech support or me or anyone else. It will save you a lot of frustration.

If you are a new owner, then I will start by saying you are trying to tackle way too much at one time. Even if you have experience designing and cutting with other machines, the Silver Bullet has a learning curve and it will serve you best if you take the time to go through the learning center classroom even if you think you don't need it. Trust me - you will benefit from it - everyone does.

It is very easy to trace an image in SCAL and then you wont have to worry about transferring the file. You can also easily add score lines - something to think about. But since you have three layers already imported (did you save as an SVG and import or send straight to SCAL from Illustrator?). If you had gone through the print and cut section of the classroom thoroughly, you would understand that each layer can be designated.

See my pictures below as a sample. You would click on your png, then the weld tool (off on the right) and designate that as print and cut print. I close the other layer to make it more understandable.

You would do the same with the cut line - weld tool then print and cut cut. As far as embossing your score lines, there are a lot of options. You can use the embossing tool (most like the engraving tool better for score lines) or use the cutting tool at a lesser force - that is what I usually do because I hate changing blades and it is just so easy to do it that way. You can use dashed lines for folding or even a solid line, just be sure to lower the pressure so you dont cut through the card stock that you are using. I have not tried to do a double operation through print and cut, but theoretically if you put one tool in the right side and one in the left and set them up accordingly, it should work - but I don't know. There might be an easier way to do what you are doing. What are you trying to cut out and score? It might change what I am saying. You normally want to emboss first and the cut out in case cutting out the image releases it a little so when you emboss the cut out "could" move if it is not wel brayered down and could move just a little and throw things off.


In the email you also asked about 45 degree vs 60 degree blade. Often times it is user choice. I love teh 45 degree blade and use it for most everything. Others swear by the 60 degree. As long as the material is not too thick, you can use whichever gives you the best result.

Hope this helps a little. Please review all in the learning center classroom.

[Yanagi]

Regarding taking on too much too soon; for me, this is the ONLY use I have for the machine. I print out my photographs via a template of my design then construct trays to be made into boxes. A sort of 3 dimensional photo box.

I conversed with Sherri before I purchased this particular machine about my desire to print + emboss + cut in one session and she said it would work for my purpose, so I hope your advice will get me on track.

I am most familiar working with Adobe photoshop and Illustrator so as long as the import works, that is the best course for me.

Thanks.

[Gigi]

There is no problem doing what you are doing, but it would still be worth your while to go through the learning center to get a full understanding of the machine. That was all I was trying to say. I understand that this is all you plan to do with the machine but you still need to go through the basics to make it easier on you and have a full concept of it all. And trust me - we have had many people buy the machine for one thing specifically, and after seeing all of the capabilities, they end up doing many more things. I am not saying that will be the case with you - but just another reason to get an overview. It could save you a lot of frustration going forward. And that is what we always try to do so no one gets discouraged in the learning process.

And rather than save as an svg and then export from Illustrator and import into SCAL, you can send to SCAL straight from Illustrator and save a step. There is a free plug in you can install from the craftedge website. Be sure you download the correct one for the program you are using and the format. It is under "other downloads" and referenced many times on the forum. Many users use this option and prefer it - but it is totally up to you.

Can I clarify something with you so I am sure I am giving you the best advice? First of all, your photo boxes sound beautiful. But I think I confused what you said earlier and that is what I would like to clarify. Are you cutting out the image (the png) or just the template with the cut and score lines. Could you scan a photo of it or send me a link to your website so I can see what you are cutting? There may be a different way to do it, but I want to be sure what is in my head is what you are trying to do!!
And/or if you would like to send me an svg file as an example, I would be happy to give it a try and see what might work best.

Thank you!

[MeFlick]

One quick follow-up, if you are trying to do a print and cut, have you calibrated your cutter as outlined in the learning center? It must be calibrated for the tools being used or it will not be accurate, I don’t have the SB dual heads, it the dual head machines thst I am familiar with require calibration for each head and each tool to be used in each head. I assume the SB Platnium dual head would require this also. As Gigi already noted, you still need to learn the basics of the machine so you can understand how to do what you are trying to do. This is best done by starting at the beginning of the learning center and working your way through the information found there.this is true no matter your ultimate goal of what you want to do with the machine. A good analogy would be thst you first have to learn to roll over, crawl, and sit up before you can learn to walk. It doesn’t take that long, but is time well spent and will save you frustration in the long run.

[Gigi]

Wayne --

Before this gets more confusing - (no fault of Melanie's - she does not have the Platinum) - you only calibrate the tool on the right which is the primary tool holder. You do not need to calibrate the left hand tool as tool #1 is the primary tool holder. But it does need to be calibrated.

Ok - back on track. I just spoke with Sherri and as you wrote in your first post which I missed, there is a bit of confusion. Sherri said what you want to do can be done in one session. You cannot confuse "session" with "action". The machine will not emboss and then cut in one step - this is PER SHERRI. As I mentioned earlier - you can emboss the box template using WYSIWYG and then cut it out, using print and cut, after it embosses.

I hope that clarifies things. And this will all make much more sense if you go through the learning center classroom. I have said it before and I will keep saying it because it is the best way to understand the machine - no matter what you are using it for.

We wish you the best and will support you as best we can, but

[MeFlick]

Thanks for the clarification on the calibration on the dual head machine Gigi.

[Gigi]

I was getting so confused with all of the conversation that I had to go back and check myself!

[Yanagi]

Thanks for the assistance. I have managed to print and cut 200 pieces successfully. Takes me less than 2 minutes per cut when using 4 mats on the fly.
I had a deadline for a job so didn't attempt the print + score + cut yet but will attempt that this week once this job has left the studio.

So far the machine is performing very well and has been a great help in my workflow. Adding the scoring element will be icing on the cake.

[Gigi]

Great to hear - glad you are enjoying it. And it is quite a workhorse as you can see. Glad you are having great success. Enjoy!