cut matboard with 60° blade?

[maxmorris]

Hello,

I don't have the 60° plus blade, only the 60° blade. I'm trying to cut matboard, which is approx 1.5 mm thick, but it's not cutting through to the other side. Is it still possible to cut matboard with just 60° blade or do I need to buy plus blade? I'm in Singapore so it's not a readily available option to me for a project I am currently working on.

I've got my settings at V800, F 19, 60° blade.

Hoping I can work around with my existing blade? Any advice for cutting all the way though with 60° blade?

Also, can I use other brand blades with my SB? When I google the blades SB is not showing up but cameo blades are readily available (but no 60° plus). Wonder if I can use these as replacements?

thanks!

[MeFlick]

First, whether or not you can cut matboard or any other material depends upon several factors. It’s thickness is definitely a major factor, but one often overlooked by many is the “density� of the media as well. If a material is “dense� it will be difficult, maybe impossible, to cut with a drag blade cutter. This is especially true with mat board, chipboard, cardboard, etc. I did a quick search of the forum and found a few posts saying they were able to do basic cuts of “2 ply� matboard, but not “4 ply�. I personally never had any success cutting matboard, but then I didn’t spend much time trying as I recall as what I wanted to cut was too dense.

Second, trying to cut something like matboard is going to dull your blade(s) very quickly. Blades are a “consumable� and you will want several on hand. They can be dulled, chipped, or broken and need to be replaced. The thicker the media, the denser the media, the more frequently blades will need replaced.The standard official support line, is that you need to use SB blades. I tend to only use the SB blades even though I have had other cutters and their blades here as I prefer to use what is recommended with my equipment. I don’t think Silhouette blades would work too well but I have not tried them. Some have used Roland blades I think. You would probably be better served to use a 60+ blade when attempting to cut a thicker medium, that is what they were designed for.

Two other things you don’t mention. How high do you have your blade holder in the machine? It needs room to “punch� down, especially if trying to work with thicker, denser media. It will need to be a little higher then if cutting paper or vinyl. You also don’t say how far you have your blade sticking out. The thicker the media you are attempting to cut, the further your blade must be sticking out of the blade holder to begin with. Then, you don’t mention if you are doing any test cuts? You will need to work through test cuts to find what will work with any media. I hate test cuts, but I know they are a necessary evil to find what works set since there are variables always in play like, condition of my blade, environment (humid, dry), etc. I have been cutting for many years with drag blade cutters but still find I need to do test cuts.

You mention your settings being V800, and F19. That is in my experience too fast on your speed and I would think definitely not any where near the force needed to cut through mat board. The thicker and denser the media, the significantly slower you need to be and much more force is needed to get through. A good test is to take the blade and see how fast and forceful it takes for you to cut into and through by hand. With my cutter, my force required was usually a lot less then many and I would usually use 15-20 to cut through simple vinyl for example while many usually had to use double that. So you would need to be way more than 19 on the force. The condition of the blade will impact setting needed as well. As mine dulls, I will need to increase my force for example, to move through a media that was using something less when blade was new. As a result, I would start my speed significantly slower and my force significantly higher then what you are attempting. Finally, you don’t mention if you are using the multi cut feature or not. The thicker the media, the more likely you will need to use multi cuts to cut through. I have never seen anyone mention not having to use multicut for something like this. This all means that you need to slow way down because you want to keep the blade aligned on the repeating cuts. The faster you go, the more likely you will see misalignment on multi cuts. Again, density of the media will also be factor and cause shifting if too dense and the blade cannot “drag� through the media. Remember, it is a drag blade cutter. It. Cuts while dragging the blade across and through. The shallower it goes, the slower it moves and the more cuts it makes the more like it will eventually work it’s way through the media IF it is not too dense. If you require multi cuts, then I would also recommend that you have an extremely sticky mat, and that you use something like painters tape to try to help hold the matboard down securely. If it shifts or moves even a little, you will not get correct alignment on multi cuts. Further, the bigger the piece of matboard you are attempting to cut, the more likely it will not stick as well and potentially shift even a hair on the cutting mat.Further, the more intricate the cuts, the more difficult you will find it to try to cut, get clean cuts, or cut through.

In the end, the density of your media will be a major factor in whether or not it will ultimately work. I have seen some people cut the media with the machine, but have to finish it by hand. Others gave up on it. Others found a media thin enough to work with slower speeds, newer longer 60+ blade, etc. the main key is that you take the time to do test cuts to find, what, if any work for you.

[Gigi]

Wow Melanie - what a thorough and well explained response. Thank you.

I too had concerns with the velocity and force - one being way too high and one being way too low! I am usually close to 30 when I cut copy paper, so a force of 19 would not even scratch the surface, unless what she is calling matboard is something entirely different than what we are used to. Being in Singapore, I have no idea is the products are similar.

As far as other blades go - I have a bunch of lesser quality Cricut blades that I will use in a pinch and only on something that doesn't matter, but if I want a clean cut, use the SB blades 99% of the time because they deliver time and time again and are the best blades on the market.

I would also default to the 60 degree plus blade for the density issue alone, but perhaps the mat board can be cut with a 60 degree blade and multiple passes. It is just going to take trial and error as you so clearly stated - the density of the product varies so much from manufacturer to manufacturer - so actually trying a variety of things, one at a time so you can see what works and what doesn't, will be the best teacher.

[maxmorris]

Thank you both for your replies!

I've been playing around with the V&F settings and also switched to a slightly thinner artboard to try it. I'm still getting a hit and a miss result from each cut. If for example, I have a row of identical shapes with corners, one will cut perfectly and the other will tear the corner.

I am now opting to go slowly and incrementally, which is mighty painful, but I'm hoping to find the magic number with my 60° blade.

I'll definitely try adjusting the height of the holder and invest in some new blades.

Thanks again.