Questions about SCAL 4 and Illustrator files

[bkyap1305]

Hi,

I don't know if I can be of any help, but I use SCAL 4 Pro and Illustrator CS6 on a MAC, with the Illustrator script installed.

I'm not really sure what you mean in #1 when you say that you see a lot of png files before the svg file is generated. How are you actually exporting to SCAL? Within Illustrator I open the File menu, then select Scripts, then Send to SCAL4Pro. The computer then switches to SCAL and places the file from Illustrator (shows me no png or svg file generation in Illustrator).

In regard to the text outlines, I don't see multiple outlines when sending text from Illustrator that has been stroked. However, in Illustrator if I convert the text to outlines and then add an offset to the path then send it to SCAL I then have both cutting lines of the original text and the offset path.

I tried to make my Illustrator program not send all the items of a design to SCAL. I always get all the design elements to SCAL unless I turned off the visibility of a layer in Illustrator. In my test, the layer I turned off the visibility to was on top. When I turned it back on all items were sent to SCAL as you would expect. If I turned off the visibility of an item within a layer it works fine.

I prefer to do all my design work in Illustrator before sending it to SCAL so that once there I just need to worry about verifying the size of my design, flipping it if necessary and then setting the cut settings for the cutter. That said, I have learned the following things to do in Illustrator before sending a design to SCAL that maybe of help to you:
1) If the design includes any text that needs to be welded prior to cutting, do it in Illustrator first by creating outlines of the text then weld them via the Pathfinder window.
2) If the design is the result of a Tracing, be sure to eliminate all the excess pieces the tracing functions creates (e.g., when an "O" is traced, you simply want the outer ring, not the center hole), otherwise SCAL will see the outer ring and the hole and cut both, which results in two cutting passes on the inside of the O).
3) Simplifying your design in Illustrator doesn't give consistent results. Even if you simplify in Illustrator, do it again in SCAL via the Path menu.

I have used Illustrator for years so when I got my cutter and started using the Illustrator/SCAL/SB trio I didn't get the results I expected. I can say that 90% of the errors were in the design from Illustrator. Now that I do the things I listed above I am getting consistently good results.

Lastly, in regard to the Print n Cut, did you calibrate the laser by following the online prompts (moving the laser to each mark and confirming) or did you set it manually? I first did the online prompt way and my cut was off. So I went to the learning center and found a video about calibrating the laser which included what to do manually. I followed those instructions and my cut was then as hoped for.

I hope something I've said may trigger something that might be helpful.

Kathy

Hi Kathy, any and all help definitely helps one way or another.
At MeFlick's advice, I've started a new thread. (Thank you, MeFlick!)

Also, you're so right, pictures would certainly help explain the situation.
Hopefully I'm able to attach some pictures properly.

I received an order from a client.
This is what he wants, a simple 4.8cm x 2.9cm sticker.

Desired_Result.jpg

This is what I do currently; print out this sheet & cut out the pieces by hand, according to the alignment marks.

Sticer_Sheet_Ready_For_Cutting.jpg

I'd like the SB13 to do the cutting for me.
Inside IllustratorCS6, I have the artwork of only 1 sticker.
I downloaded the script & this is how I chose the script from inside IllustratorCS6.

Selecting_SCAL4Script.jpg

The was what I got inside SCAL4 after the script finished running.

Illustrator_Artwork_scripted_into_SCAL4.jpg

Alternatively, I tried saving the artwork as an SVG file & then importing it from inside SCAL4.

SVG_Imported_into_SCAL4.jpg

My intention :
Import the image of a single sticker into SCAL4.
In SCAL4, copy&paste the sticker to populate it over a larger sheet.
Set all the stickers to Print+Cut Print.
Manually draw the cut lines & set these to Print+Cut Cut.
Print out the images with the 3 registration marks.
Calibrate the laser to the cutter blade.
Pin-point the 3 registration marks & let the SB13 do its magic.


Is this what I'm supposed to do?

[Gigi]

OK - I just moved it and started a new thread for you. Changing the subject within the thread will not create a new thread. You need to click on the "new thread" button. No problem.

I don't use Illustrator, but have a thought. And I think there are several ways to easily do this. Why bring the image (whether it's jpg., png or bmp) into SCAL? You can select Place Image which will put it on the mat, then select it and choose Trace Image, or just bring it into SCAL directly using Trace Image. Depending on the image, you may just get the outline that you want, or you may need to trace using the blackout option. Select the show image part and click Ok. What should appear is your one label with the vector outline - so you would essentially have one print and cut label.

I just tried this to be sure it works. You should have two layers showing. Turn off the outline layer, click on the wrench on the right side and choose Print-Cut-Print. Now turn the outline layer on and turn the image off and select Print-Cut-Cut. Ok

Now turn on both layers. Select the whole image and then to to Object>Duplicate. A screen will pop up and you can increase the columns (as many as will fit) the rows, and decrease the space in between so you literally have one label after another the way I think you want it (just sent the spacing to 0000). Click Ok and the page will populate. The cool thing is that all of the images will remain print cut print and the outlines will be print cut cut.

Now remember you cannot fill the entire page with labels as you need room for the registration marks to print, so click on preview and you will see where your printer will put the registration marks and adjust the page accordingly . Your whole project will have to "print and cut" within the registration mark area - make sense? You can make the distance between the registration marks and printing closer if need be, but you want to have some room to play. (I can tell you how to adjust if you need to)

Not sure if I explained that well enough- lmk. I think it's super easy doing it in SCAL that way and saves you a few steps from your way, although that would work but this is a little easier. You may need to weld the lines first so you dont get double cuts on the inner vertical and horizontal lines.

And someone may know an even easier way. I havent tried it so just went through the process to figure it out. LMK if this is remotely close to what you want to do.

I would print some practice sheets first before you try the real thing and be sure you get the results you want. Also calibrate your machine before you go through this and be sure your print and cut is accurate so that will ensure the label cutting being perfect.

Again , we do not recommend trying to do print and cut when you are such a new user as there are a lot of things to adjust to from learning about how the machine cuts. Be sure you are really comfortable with the machine before tackling this.

[bkyap1305]

Hi Gigi, you're a life-saver!
Your "Place Image" method is exactly what I need to do.
It's also so much faster duplicating placed images compared with imported images.

I'll update you once I've practiced this.

Again, thank you very much!

[Gigi]

Ok good. Just remember you need to trace it. And if you duplicate it then (after you define the two layers) you wont have to go through and redefine each one - if that makes sense.

Glad I could help. Be sure you leave margins for the registration marks as the image you showed doesn't have quite enough room....... as I recall.

Good luck!

[bkyap1305]

It works... almost.

I placed the artwork (print+cut print) & cutting outline (print+cut cut), & then duplicated it over the page.
I took your advice & made sure the registration marks were intact.

The "weld" feature didn't work for this job though.
The customer needed each piece cut out individually.

Anyways, this is the result.
The intersections of the cuts are diamond-shaped.

20150727_141440-01.jpg

Would you know why this happens? Something to do with the offset settings?

[Gigi]

I understood that your customer needed individual labels but was afraid in the duplicating of the rectangle that you would have multiples of the rectangular lines where they come together vertically and horizontally.

I doubt you have diamond cuts ( could certainly be wrong but that makes no sense...) but can see better if you zoom into the corners of the file and do a screen shot of that, if needed.It may be that the material is pulling up from the mat at the corners. Are you cutting the labels from sticker/label full sheets? Which blade are you using? What force? Are you brayering the material to the mat. I just looks like the corners are lifting to me. When you cut, is it cutting the lines once or twice?

[bkyap1305]

I understood that your customer needed individual labels but was afraid in the duplicating of the rectangle that you would have multiples of the rectangular lines where they come together vertically and horizontally.

I doubt you have diamond cuts ( could certainly be wrong but that makes no sense...) but can see better if you zoom into the corners of the file and do a screen shot of that, if needed.It may be that the material is pulling up from the mat at the corners. Are you cutting the labels from sticker/label full sheets? Which blade are you using? What force? Are you brayering the material to the mat. I just looks like the corners are lifting to me. When you cut, is it cutting the lines once or twice?

I'm cutting the labels from a full sheet.
I have on a 60deg cutter. The force on the SilverBullet is set to 18.
I don't have a brayer, but I smooth the sheet down as best I can with a clean cloth.
Most of the straight edges are double-cut, but visually those cuts are really clean.
And you're right that the corners where the cuts meet are lifting.

After writing this, I tried something else.
Instead of cutting out the rectangles individually, I simply cut straight lines right across the sheet, both horizontally & vertically.
No corners, therefore no lifting; very clean.

[Gigi]

That's what I was going to suggest as I was pretty sure it was going over the lines twice and pulling.

Also, are you using a label sheet? With a force of 18 you might get better results using the 45 degree blade. Everyone has their favorite, but some use the 60 degree blade for everything and others use the 45 degree for just about everything.

You will get much better results with a brayer - or even a credit card. A clean cloth isn't going to put the pressure on the media to give the best adhesion to the mat. That is really important.

Take your time and try the two blades and see which give you better results, but the 60 is "usually" reserved for a heavier card stock.

Glad you got it figured out so it works for you.

[mrsefs]

Hi,

I am curious if the photo you posted of the sticker your client wants is made up of vectors, or is it a placed raster file? My script from Illustrator (on my MAC) will only send across vectors. If I leave a placed image on the page, I simply get an empty place holder in SCAL for that.

Kathy

[Gigi]

Kathy -

Why don't you just place the image - bring it in as a jpg and then trace or whatever you need to do - so easy - depending on what you want to do. Just a thought....